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Junko Progress, Black Shirt

This part of the cosplay is much easier for me, it isn't as complicated as the under shirt, but it still does require some embroidery. I am not very versatile in making the patterns for my embroidery machine, but I am thankful my close friend Ellori Mae Cosplay works for a place that specializes in things like this. Unfortunately my machine can only do about 4-5 inch designs, which would be able to do the sleeve design, but that meant I had to figure out something for the hip design. Though it's an easier process than you think, again, the ideas come from Ellori and is a good reason why they are one of my best friends. Any kind of thing I am stumped on when it comes to cosplay, I always mention it to them and than in turn they have brilliant ideas. So overall, thank you Ellori, you saved my butt yet again!

To start with, similar to the white undershirt, I took apart the first black shirt from my first version of this cosplay and used that to make another set of patterns out of wrapping paper to save for later. Now I have a full yellow folder with the patterns in which I can store away for later, or inevitably forget that I have it and end up making a similar or the same exact pattern for later. It's a vicious cycle, I never said I was good at this...

I got the fabric the same time I got the white fabric for the undershirt at my local thrift store, again, I really don't think I need to pay an absurd amount of money for white and black fabric when it is perfectly accessible at a thrift store for half and even less than half the price for new fabric. Personally it all worked out fine, just a quick wash and it all acted the same exact way as if I were to get brand new fabric.

I started out with cutting out the previous white cube designs from her hip and sleeve from the previous shirt so I knew the dimensions for the next shirt, especially for the sleeve since Ellori needed to make the pattern for me. I struggled with trying to figure out how I would make the one on the hip since my embroidery machine can't do anything bigger than 5 inch pattern really, and since our schedules were not going to match up anytime soon, I had no way of going to see Ellori so we could do it at their work place. Unfortunately they live about 3 hours away from me, it's tragic really. But they gave me the idea of setting the tension super tight and using a zigzag stitch to carefully sew on my regular sewing machine the pattern that I would draw out in chalk for the hip pattern, which is essentially the same concept an embroidery machine uses (Of course not exactly, there is much more components to an embroidery machine but for this it works out just fine).

After I had sewn the main pieces together, the back and two front pieces, I fit it so it was at a comfortable level with my body. I had to do this a few times and even one more time after everything was finished because of my body shape, I have a deep hourglass curve and like to show it off personally; pay attention to your body type and what parts you want to be a big focus for you, it makes the cosplay and experience a lot better when you know you are comfortable and happy with how you shaped the outfit. And regardless of body type, go with what YOU personally are comfortable with, not what you think others would like.

After the fitting was done, I took the previous pattern from the first outfit and drew on the pattern with chalk onto the new shirt. I wanted to treat the process exactly like I would if I was using my embroidery machine, but I also did a few test strips as well to be sure I would be doing it right. This proved to be a good choice because the stitches were still too wide, but when I set the machine to do a stitch as if I was making button holes, it turned out perfect and I went to work. I place an embroidery paper behind the fabric, and set up the embroidery square so that everything stayed tight and in place and nothing would shift on me. I took my time, followed the pattern and it turned out perfect and exactly the way I wanted.

With the hip pattern done, and figuring out the fit with the buttons attached, Ellori sent me the pattern for the shoulder image which was the last piece I needed. The embroidery itself was no problem, it's simply putting the image into the machine, edit if you need to, than press okay and your good to go. With me, I don't know why it was so difficult to figure out my left and right and how the image would be facing, but I spent an embarrassing amount of time figuring this out and sacrificed a sleeve in the process; but what it cosplay without a few sacrifices? Needless to say it was way easier than I originally thought, and I simply placed the sleeve in the way I needed to with the embroidery square and paper on the back, pressed okay and all was well... I'm embarrassed with how my brain works sometimes.

With the pattern on the sleeve, I finished up sewing the pieces together and adding them to the top. Once it was all put together I hemmed around the neck and the bottom, finished out with serging the sleeves on the inside and it was almost done. When I did the final fit, once again I wasn't too impressed with the felt on my body, it felt like there was no real emphasis on my waist and I didn't like it. Unfortunately everything was already sewn and hemmed, so instead of trying to figure out how to seam rip things, especially since one of the seams would cut the hip image, I decided to go to the back of the shirt and shape it down the middle. In turn it actually didn't turn out that bad. It sucks that there is a seam in the middle of the back, but I have had many cosplays with seams down the back, so I don't mind as much. Plus it was a last minute decision and I wanted to feel comfortable in this cosplay more than anything.

And finally, the last thing I worked on was the tie. With the shirt being slightly different in fit than the last one, the only thing I changed with the tie was bringing the fabric that held it together further down, and adding snaps to it and the black shirt so it sits on the shirt and doesn't move around. Even with the last cosplay, I didn't like the idea of the tie just hanging loosely across my chest, especially since my chest is sensitive with things like necklaces or things sitting on it. Again, go with your comfort level, screw inaccuracy if it makes you too uncomfortable!

And with that, Junko's outfit has been fully redone! Literally I think I have spent a total of three years on this cosplay for the fact that I kept going back and changing things, like making the wig bigger, to redoing the outfit to fit better and look better. At this point the only things I think I would ever consider redoing at this point is maybe make my own bears for the pigtails and making my own Monokuma plush, or maybe remake the mallet. But for now I think this is a good stopping point for Junko (I say this but watch me think of something else and come back to eat my words).

I will be Junko on day one of Anime Washington in Tacoma coming up on the 27th and 28th, the second day I will be Cassie from the Security Breach Ruin DLC. If you see me please feel free to come and say hello and take pictures! I would love to hang out and chat!

Until next post!

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